The AC also removes moisture from the air. The odor problem is probably due to mold caused by a blocked drain hose. Unplug drain hose or replace same.
I start my car; turn the AC to Max, and the air to Recirculate. I then roll down the driver window just enough that I can place a can Lysol through and spray for a few minutes to all the Lysol to work into the AC system. After doing so the car smells great and the annoying initial smell is gone for a few months.
after making sure it will drain properly the best way to permanently remove smells is to use a "ozone machine" or a ionizer this attacks the odor causing molecules and breaks them down. 30-60 minutes from a powerful unit will do the trick , most carpet cleaning companies that also do water repairs have these machines and their rates vary. alpine air also makes a home unit and these are good to use in the home 24/7 as well
Check to see if you have a cabin air filter. For example, new Toyota passenger cars all have them behind the glove compartment. Ask any quick lube or the dealer if you have one.
There is a product that Walmart and auto parts stores sell called Ozium. Follow directions on the can. It kills the bacteria that grows on the condensor of your AC.
On most all vehicles there is a vent just in front of the windshield. Any foregin substance or outside smell (e.g. exhaust gas from the car in front of you) can come into your car through this vent. Turn on fan in your car and pour a mixture of soapy water in the vent outside at the windshield. Some of the soapy water will make it into the fan housing cleaning it. Make sure to run plenty of clean water after to rinse.
I have heard that animals crawl inside the AC box, and make their nests there. I have also heard stories of where squirrels will store store food here (in this case it was dog food). To fix? Pull apart the ducting, clean out whatever smells, and install a cabin filter to prevent little rodents from renetering. If you cannot install a filter, put your air on recirculate when storing the car.
Another point of view:
It is bad. China had a per capita carbon emission of about five tons in 2008, exceeding the world average of 4.18 tons per capita.
Data on the air quality in Beijing is difficult to come by and difficult to interpret when available. Factors such as the location of monitoring sites strongly impacts the perception of quality. However, the following external information may prove useful.
According to the European Space Agency, Beijing and its neighbouring north-east Chinese provinces have the planet's worst levels of nitrogen dioxide, which can cause fatal damage to the lungs. The Chinese independent environmental researchers list Beijing as No. 28 out of 113 on the Chinese list of polluted cities in China.
Beijing does not make the Top 10 list of polluted cities for particulate matter (Wikipedia data), or the Forbes Top 25 most polluted cities in the world (data prepared by Mercer Human Resources Consultants).
China itself is second on the list of carbon dioxide emitters in the world (Wikipedia data).
106 Tons of Carbon Dioxide per year:
It may be assumed that the majority of these emissions are related to heavily industrialized areas such as Beijing. There will be a burden of other pollutants with the carbon dioxide.
Municipal environmental departments in Beijing report deceases in SOx emissions of several percent in recent years.Previous friendus
Since the 1980s, the city has experienced rapid industrial development, urbanization and increased traffic. Pollution from coal-fired power plants and emissions from slow-moving gas guzzlers have combined to cast a dun-colored haze over Beijing and its sprawling suburbs.
do you have your a/c set to fan? not a/c? otherwise you might need to contact your local a/c repair man and e will tell you you need a charge of freon in your system.
Why not to start checking the simple points like the filter, duct mechanism, etc.
Not so simple to give a "One Size Fits All" answer for but here are a few things to check.
1) when the system is running does the outside unit kick on? That is the condensing unit and supports the compressor which ultimately provides the cooling to the coil in the unit inside.
2) is the air filter dirty or do you have low air flow if so check the lines at the outside unit see if they're frosting or icing up. If they are try the air filter but if that still doesn't solve the problem call for service a low freon charge will cause icing.
3) if you have low flow but a clean filter check the "MERV" rating on the filter a merv 6-8 should be sufficient for most applications except cigarette smoke. The lower the merv # the less the resistance to air flow the larger the particle rating that it will filter in microns.
4) There are other components which can require servicing but they are normally handled by your service person unless you are familiar with HVAC repair. Have a Great day.
Be advised that I own and service a 2000 Taurus 3.0L OHV engine. The low side valve is located at the rear firewall near the right side \ passenger side strut tower and has a black plastic cap similar to a tire valve stem cap. Stay away from the high pressure side which on my vehicle is at the front right near the radiator. Not certain but believe R-12 Freon was being phased out about 1992 and the new refrigerant is R134a. You need of course to know what your AC system requires, R-12, or R134a. Then appropriate charging kit to add refrigerant.
Its located on the evaporator to accumulator suction line under the cowl panel...............
Buy a kit at Wal-Mart or auto parts comes with instructions
on the pasinger side there should be a silver looking tank on top there is a cap that is black pull off there is a thing that looks like a air valve on a tire get the recharge bottle from auto zone and put it on there
Follow the larger hose from the compressor - perhaps near the drier on the passenger side firewall
The low pressure port on a Ford Taurus is located next to the firewall. If you are looking from the front of the car, the port is on the far left side of the engine compartment.
The fill orfice is located near the aluminum "cylinder" near the firewall on the passenger side of the car, it is beneath the plastic shround near the firewall. This is the low pressure side of the system. Do not try and fill through the the high press. side located near the radiator! Wear safety googles!
on the passenger side firewall behind plastic sheild.
There is a big hose and a small hose at the compressor. The big hose is the low pressure.
Where is the low pressure side of the ac system on a 1999 ford taurus?" low pressure side is located near the fire wall on the left side.
Not hard at all, just buy the recharge kit at the auto parts store and follow the directions. The kit will only attach to the low side so you cannot make that mistake. The low pressure port will be near the compressor on a larger hose and will have a screw on cap with the letter L on it.
passenger side near the fire wall. the only one the freon hose fits.
It contains no Freon. It contains R-134. If it is low, you have a leak, that must be repaired before adding refrigrant. Take it to a professional.
There is a valve that looks like a tire air port that is located under the hood directly in front of the passenger seat. It is located on the right of the air compressor, in front of the fire wall. There should be a screw cap on top of the port. Crank your AC to the highest it will go, flip the cap on your refill, attach it to the port, shake can, and press.
You know somethings wrong when you see smoke! Disconnect the unit! Call someone who is competent and can diagnose and repair or replace it. Or let the system blow smoke until it catches fire then call the fire department the choice is yours .
Ok is it smoke, did it smell burned? Or was is a defrost cycle observed on colder days in heat pump systems? or was it a white vaporous cloud, after cloud dissipated was there signs of oil if so it was the ref charge
However, not all refrigerants contain chlorine, and those that don't contain chlorine have zero ODP*. Two examples would be R134A, used by most vehicle manufacturers, and R410A (one trade name is "Puron") now used by most residential A/C manufacturers. If you do some digging on the EPA web site, you will find that sales and use of R134A and R410A and a few other refrigerants are not currently restricted by the EPA, and it is legal for anyone to purchase them if the state they're in allows it. (You must also be aware of any state and local regulations.)
You should also know that your equipment may not need more refrigerant - the problem may have a different cause - and you can't just add any kind of refrigerant, since equipment is designed to use only certain refrigerants and oils. Adding the wrong ones can do serious damage to the compressor and other expensive components.
As for adding refrigerant to your own equipment: in most cases, it's not a good idea unless you have the tools, training, and experience for the job. There are risks to your personal safety, risks to the equipment if serviced improperly, and risks to the environment if refrigerant is allowed to escape. Also, regarding the environmental risks, the EPA makes it absolutely positively crystal clear that it is illegal to deliberately release ANY refrigerant, even non-chlorinated refrigerants, into the atmosphere. All refrigerants also have a global warming potential (GWP), so that is also an environmental consideration.
As mentioned earlier, you may check the EPA web sites to verify this information, and also to keep up-to-date on the latest regulations.
Window air conditioners are not designed to allow adding Freon. They are charged at the factory and hermetically sealed, so they shouldn't have any leaks or require recharging for the service life of the unit. If a window air conditioner no longer cools adequately it is most likely due to dust buildup on the coils, or eventually, the compressor wearing out and and becoming inefficient. If the unit has been used extensively, but otherwise maintained, the compressor may be suspect if the unit is over 10 years old.
Central air conditioning units have fittings on them with Schrader valves, similar to those found on automotive air conditioning systems. There is a high pressure side valve and a low pressure side valve. Refrigerant is added on the low pressure side, preferably while the compressor is running. A technician will use a special gauge manifold that allows monitoring of high side and low side pressure simultaneously while adding refrigerant from a portable cylinder.
Current regulations require an HVAC license to purchase and use refrigerants such as R12, R22 and R134a, generally called "Freon", although technically, not all refrigerants are sold under that brand name. There are alternatives, such as Duracool, which can be freely used in systems originally designed for R12, R22 or R134a, without having to change seals or lubricants, and can be purchased and handled without an HVAC license. Duracool-type refrigerants are essentially highly refined propane, and are thus flammable, so they need to be handled with care. Otherwise, they are environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
Try cleaning your coils first, not just the outside. Most service techs never clean the (evaporator) that's above your furnace because it is tough to do. Clean first before you assume anything. One reason it may be dirty is if you have indoor pets.
You can add freon to the low side of your a/c. When the gauges are attached to the system, you can use the third hose to attach to the freon can. Make sure you leave the can upright so as to add only the gas. Don't turn the freon can upside down to add liquid as this can lock up the compressor and then you will have to call the a/c repairman.
First, you need to be EPA certified unless you are charging your own appliance, and if adding certain types of refrigerants, certification is required to purchase the refrigerant as explained above. You need to know what kind of refrigerant. [ R22 R143a etc. ] On a home system a good set of gauges and connect properly on a 22 unit low side is blue, suction line is larger in size pipe. High side red smaller diameter. Connect both hoses check pressures if their is no reading the compressor is not running. If compressor is running on a 22 unit the high side red should be 225 to 275 should not go above 350 psi or it will cause damage your unit more or cause a rupture low side should be from 60 psi to 80 psi don't go any higher to much freon is no good and will cause higher temp. Be careful because were talking high pressures you should have a certified tech. do this if you add freon you must have a leak it dose not evaporate their is no winter summer freon its a sealed system and should never need refrigerant.
Some things to know:
#1. Don't burn your fingers, it hurts, real bad.
#2. Don't overcharge, even a little too much and you wont' remove humidity and it will never cool.
#3. He didn't mention bleeding out the air from your lines before charging after hooking up the cylinder, let that air into your system and you are causing more trouble.
If you want to do typical home improvement type things, if you are a DIY guy, stick with changing your filter monthly, make sure your drains are clear, and change/ check your thermostat batteries. anything else you are playing with high voltage, and freon.
I have had plenty of customers that decided to change their thermostat themselves to save $50. They shorted out the board, ended up costing themselves a $500 repair.
I would listen to the advice freezer-burn hurts an makes your finger black, and did you need to add refrigerant or take some out? Remember also to reclaim the refrigerant in an" EPA "approved cylinder. If you over load your compressor it will fail. If the compressor burns out it may have a chemical reaction with the refrigerant and produce acid in your system. Now you have a real mess at that point! All the refrigerant has to be removed, the compressor / motor replaced, the system purged, the oil replaced the refrigerant replaced, a run up of the system to check that it is running properly. I believe I would leave the servicing to the technician who has extensive (hours of class room and field experience) training.
Check cooling coil/evaporator(in the door unit)if there is ice built up then feel the air vent. If you do not feel air, it means your vent is blocked and you may need to clean the air vent. You probably have a leak. You need r22 test gauge and hose, reamer, tube cutter and flaring kit.
Check the suction pressure (big tube at out door unit) and remove 2 way cap and 3 way cap valve then connect the blue hose at service port 3 way valve (port located at left or right depends on the manufacturer.) You will get pressure about 40-45 psi (air conditioner is running) then use an Allen key(hexagonal wrench) to close 2 way valve (small tube or gas discharge side) wait 1-2 minute cooling operation then close 3 way valve (suction tube or big tube) immediately shut off air conditioner and pull out power chord. You may need 2 people one at in door unit and the other at out door unit. This method is to keep remaining gas inside the compressor/condenser. Then leak check, open 2 way valve about 90 degrees hold it for 10 seconds then close it. Measure the pressure and keep it open for 5-10 minutes. If the pressure does not indicate the same as when it was first measure it means that you have a leakage. For air conditioners 1- 5 years old, the leakage will happen at the copper tubing connection and improper flaring. Then you will need to clean the in-door and out-door unit. Use a spanner or wrench to loosen the copper flare nut at the out-door unit and in-door unit (inside insulation) then use PVC tape to cover all copper pipes to prevent dirt from going inside. Lift up out-door unit and use coil cleaner detergent. Wait 5 minutes then flush with water. Remove indoor front panel then disconnect out-door unit cable at front panel in door unit. Lift up indoor unit to disengage the hook and pull out the indoor unit, then clean the cooling coil, cover electrical parts with plastic. The last step is that you need to cut (use cooper cutters) the copper pipe on the flare nut connection (low side with big tube and high side with small tube) in-door connection and out-door connection. Then you will need to remove the burr from cut edge using reamer and make sure metal powder does not go in. Make a flare after inserting the flare nut onto the copper pipes. You can install the unit back now. Check the low side pressure of the unit. If the pressure is between 55-67 psi no need to charge it. Before u charge r22 gas u need to to purge air inside piping/tubing by using leakage check method. Just use the service port so their will be no need to use test gauge. Crack open 2 way valve for 10 seconds then close it. Now push the pin(same as a tire pin) at the service port 3 way valve for 3 seconds repeat this three times. You may need to purge all air inside test gauge and hose. Then check gas leakage using same method that was already explained. CHECK suction pressure 55-67 psi in running mode and set it to the lowest temperature (16 Celsius/27 Fahrenheit) and pipe length below 10 feet should be okay. If it is not okay, you will need r22 gas tank. Connect yellow hose to r22 tank and middle connection at test gauge. Then fully open tank valve and crack open blue stem at test gauge (do not exceed 60 psi to prevent flooding the compresser) for 30 seconds to 1 minute then close it. Measure the pressure for 1-3 minutes. Repeat this step until you get 67 psi in running air-conditioner or u can feel the suction pipe to see if it is cool. If your unit already empty you need r22 lubrication and weight scale put r22 gas-tank on the scale and read at out-door unit tag how much the manufacturer recommends the weight should be. Then u need to fill the yellow hose with r22 lubrication about 5-10 milliliters. Repeat charging method that has already been explained and measure the weight of the gas according to the manufacturer and then you are done.
What is "Super heat"?
You will hear and see this term all the time in reference to refrigeration. Simply put it is the difference between the temperature of a vapor line in relation to the temperature scale on a pressure gauge for a particular refrigerant or how much liquid is feeding the evaporator in relation to how fast it is being boiled off. for example (R22) if the suction gauge reads 70 psi then the evaporating temperature is 41 degrees but if the tubing is 51 degrees then you have 10 degrees of Superheat. A typical range for residential air conditioning is 8-18 degrees with some error based on extreme conditions. Once you understand Superheat you can diagnose obvious problems. For example a system that is under charged or has a stuck (closed) metering device will have high super heat (over 20 degrees) at the compressor and a system that is grossly overcharged or has a dirty indoor coil will have very low Superheat about 3-7 degrees with low suction pressure and the suction line will be very cold. It is ok and quite normal for the Superheat to change dynamically while the system is running, you will have to interpret what you are seeing.
What is "Sub cooling"?
Sub-cooling is similar to Superheat but happens in the condensing portion. Refrigerant when condensing will happen at a particular temperature which is very close to the temperature scale corresponding to head pressure for a given refrigerant. After the refrigerant is condensed it will try to assume ambient temperature but will never reach it. The difference between liquid line temperature and condensing saturation temperature is Sub-cooling and is a very good indication of "refrigerant level", but only when proper Superheat is indicated or you could have a misleading indication. Typically 20 degrees of Sub-cooling is desirable and the closer the liquid line temperature is to ambient the better (indicating an efficient system). Checking Sub-cooling in the heat mode of a heat pump has to be done carefully because you have influence of the space between the indoor coil and the point of measurement. For best heating you will want most of the refrigerant to be condensing in indoor coil without backing it up with refrigerant.
As a general rule Sub-cooling = Refrigerant charge quantity, Superheat = Refrigerant cycle performance. Check both!!!
Where would it go if it were a magic chef brand
An R22 coil will work properly with R410A only ifseveral conditions are met.
First, the manufacturer of the coil must specify that it will work with both refrigerants. R410A systems operate at about 40 to 70 % higher pressure than R22 systems.
Second, the new coil must be equipped with an inlet control (either a thermal expansion valve or orifice) that is intended for R410A. The new coil may not use a capillary tube metering system to control refrigerant flow into the evaporator coils.
Third, the tonnage, or Btu capacity, of the coil and control device, and the EER/SEER of the coil must match those same ratings for the condensing unit.
Fourth, if the new coil has been used in an R22 system, it must be thoroughly flushed clean of oil, and must be refitted with the proper control valving for R410A.
R12 is almost impossible to buy, unless you go to a large-scale auto parts supplier like Napa. They won't sell it to you unless you are a certified A/C technician. You can buy R134a easily at other auto-parts stores, but be careful! If your car's A/C system is depleted of all refrigerant, you have a serious leak that must be fixed. Also, a vacuum pump must be used on the system (to remove air) before you introduce R134a.
R12 is difficult to find and they do sell conversion kits to make R12 systems compatible for R134a, but something most people won't inform you of is the fact R12 seals and oil protect against the chlorine in the freon where R134a uses a hydrogen setup. If you do convert a R12 system to R134a the hydrogen molecule in it is going to ruin every seal and oil in the system because its more corrosive, so if you can spend the extra for the R12 because long run its going to be way cheaper for you and last longer.
It depends on what type of freon your car uses. If it is pre 1994ish you will probably need R-12 freon. Unless you are certified to purchase it, you will have to go to a service station. If your car is a later model it probably uses R-134a. This can be purchased at your local auto parts store. I have found the best deals at Bumper To Bumper.
If your vehicle came with R-12 (DuPont name Freon) it should be converted to R-134a----private individuals cannot purchase R-12 and professionals can with IMACA or ASE permits. Even then it has to be 30# service tanks. R-12 (Freon) has not been manufactured since 1995.
The best place to find freon would simply go to Wal-Mart after you find out what type of freon you have most likely r-134a or R-12. They sell a freon that seals some small leaks.
(Refrigerant--Freon or otherwise--cannot seal leaks in an A/C system. Some manufacturers put in an additive that supposedly accomplishes this, but don't count on it. Remember, the system operates at very high pressures.)
Although repair facilities are expensive it is a good idea to have your A/C serviced by a professional only. Properly filling a system requires several expensive pieces of equipment that are not practical to own for home use. It is easy to overcharge a system if you do not have a set of gauges.
DO NOT use refrigerant stop leak canisters. The chemicals in these cause havoc to a/c servicing machines. If your system has a leak then you should locate the leak using refrigerant dye and repair the leaking component. a repair facility will have a high power vacuum pump to determine if a system has a leak.
Adding Freon to your AC Unit
Although, some of what I've read here is right on, I feel it necessary to state that you should utilize an EPA certified person.
Charging an ACsystem is more complicated than you may think. Superheat, subcooling...
Still with me?... Oh, and yes, length of your refrigerant line-set...
Did you know you need 0.6 oz of freon, puron, r-407c or what whatever else per foot?
It is important to DO YOUR RESEARCH or you soon be will be calling for a professional!
The handling and use of refrigerants are regulated by the EPA, and require certification to obtain or use. A qualified technician will need to purchase and install refrigerant ( Freon).Please read this thread; How do you add Freon to your central air conditioner unit
I presume you are looking for the resistors on the air-conditioner fan?
This description is for a 1997 2.6 kombi.
These are located in the rear duct unit. Most of the work requires two people (with lots of patience and understanding!)
It is a mission to get at. Remove the front ducting unit first. Watch out for the lamp on the visor and unplug these wires.
The section of ducting are each held on by two bolts to the roof. Be carefull with the grey sealing rubber as it is glued at the ends. Carefully prise off with a sharp knife.
Each section of ducting pushes on to the next and once all the ducting has been removed start with the removal of the rear unit by taking off the side pillar covers. Remove all screws holding the rear unit and lover onto a suitable stand (a 20lt paint tin worked for me.)
Now for the real fun part. The uppercover has to be removed. remove all screws and then carefully prise the glued rear edge apart. I used a pocket knife and slowly prised it apart took about 20 minutes.
After that presto! the two resistors are on each side of the fans. They have 4 terminals and should have 1.4 , 0.8 and two Ohms resistance between terminal. These are 80 watt suckers and I think that you would have to buy the parts from VW. I could not trace anything elswhere.
While you at it clean the evaporator radiator well! You don't want to go through all that again.
Hope this helps,
The temperature sender (the sensor that sends the temperature signal to the gauge) has to be immersed in coolant in order to correctly read the temperature. If the coolant is so low that it leaves the sender high and dry, the temperature shown on the gauge will not be a true reading.
if the sensor is not immersed in the coolant, there a big chance it wont read at all...
An airplane airconditioner is completely different than the one in your house or car. It doesn't rely on a refrigerant. Rather it takes hot high pressure air from the hot compressor section of the turbine engine and puts into something called a PAC. There is one PAC for each engine. The air first goes into a heat exchanger where it is cooled by ram air. Some of the air is then sent to a small turbine where the pressure is further increased. the air is then cooled again through another heat exchanger then sent to an expansion turbine where the pressure is dropped, rapidly cooling the air. A water separator collects the water released from this rapid expansion. The resulting cold air is then mixed with the air that was sent to the first heat exchanger. The pilot manually adjusts the mixing of the two air supply's to arrive at a temperature that is suitable for the cabin. The temperature is voice controlled. When the flight attendant calls up and yells it's too hot back here, he knows it's time to readjust. Since there are two PAC's one is used to control the air in the front of the airplane, the other the rear. People in the middle get what's left over... Hope this helps. -- Southwest Airlines First Officer ( aka "termperature boy")
An appliance designed for 240V absolutely must have a 240V outlet installed for it; there is no way to properly power it with 120V. If you aren't able to install a 240V outlet yourself, you should contact an electrician.
You'll have to install a double-pole breaker in your breaker box. As for the outlet, read the instructions and determine what size outlet (how many amps) you need. For the cables, if it's an air conditioner that requires 120/240V then you'll need a 4 conductor wire. (3 wires plus ground.) If it just requires 240V you'll need a 3 conductor wire. (2 wires plus ground.)
For wire sizes, some recommendations, which exceed the National Electrical Code, are:
15 Amps or less: 12 gauge; 20 Amps or less: 10 gauge; 30 Amps or less: 8 gauge;
40 Amps or less: 6 gauge; 50 Amps or less: 4 gauge.
Again, these values are over-sized but bear in mind that the actual length of the run is very important and must be taken into account when selecting the gauge of wiring to use for a new circuit. Best practice is to check with a licensed electrician or see Table 310.16 in the National Electrical Code.
If you do this work yourself, always turn off the power
at the breaker box/fuse panel BEFORE you attempt to do any work AND
always use an electrician's test meter having metal-tipped probes
(not a simple proximity voltage indicator)
to insure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
An air conditioner is a device which uses a special type of substance which readily changes from its normal gas state to a liquid one (Typically freon or another refrigerant such as R-20 [chloroform] or R-134 [tetrafluoroethane]). The gas is contained in a closed circuit of pipes connected to a pump. The pump compresses the gas so hard that the pressure is great enough for it to turn into a liquid. In doing this the gas/liquid has got hot (If you try to compress a gas, it will almost always get hot - think of a bike pump when you pump up a tyre (tire), the greater the pressure in the tyre, the hotter the pump gets).
Now the hot liquid travels round a set of pipes which allow the heat to escape. Next the liquid under pressure passes through a valve into a pipe where the pressure is much lower, and the liquid evaporates back into its gas state. In doing this it needs to take in heat from its surroundings, thus making the pipes colder. The gas now gets back to the pump and the whole cycle starts again.
The pipes are usually arranged so that there are fans to blow air over both the hot part of the pipes and the cold part. The hot part is frequently put outside the house, and the cold part inside. This is called either a 'split pack', or a 'twin pack' depending on which country you are in There are also portable versions which have both parts in the same box, with the cold air blowing out of the front, and the hot air blowing out of a flexible hose which you put put outside the room to allow the hot air to dissipate.
It's less a question of legality than whether it is prudent. Due to current regulations, air conditioning systems can only be recharged by individuals licensed to purchase and handle refrigerants, and some refrigerants, particularly R12 and R22 for older systems (the kind that are more likely to be leaking) have become very pricey. Recharging a system can easily run $200 and up these days. It would make more sense to first locate and repair the leak before recharging the system.
In the alternative, one can convert a system to use a refrigerant that doesn't require licensing to purchase and use, such as Duracool, which is essentially highly refined propane, the same stuff that we use for barbecues and to heat and cook in recreational vehicles and houses that aren't connected to a city gas supply. Such non-chlorinated refrigerants are 100% compatible with the materials and lubricants used in R12, R22 (CFC) and R134a (HCFC) systems, and can be substituted with improved efficiency, requiring about half as much refrigerant as the CFC or HCFC they replace for the same cooling effect. If there is a leak, it would need to be repaired, since Duracool and similar refrigerants are flammable. On the positive side, they are environmentally friendly, non-toxic, and just like cooking gas, they have an odorant added so that one can detect leaks by smell.
Safety note: If your current, leaky system uses R134a and you find that the leak is inside the living space, get it fixed now, or have a technician evacuate and "mothball" the system now! R134a, when exposed to a flame, such as from a candle, a cigarette or a gas range, decomposes into phosgene gas, which can be deadly if inhaled in sufficient amounts.
The drain hose is located on the firewall just over the steering rack, slightly on the right. Pete
COLD TO HOT or if you want to be technical between 62+- to 92 +- Fahrenheit on average. if its too cold the heater obviously isn't working, but may I suggest first looking at your heater controls to ensure the temperature dial is set to warm (THE RED PART OF THE CONTROL)
When trying to cool a typical house, the average central AC will only decrease the temperature by about 20 degrees. For example, when it is 100 degrees outside, the inside will typically cool to about 80 at best. However, in order to achieve the 80 degrees inside, the air coming out of the vent should be 45-55 degrees.
The temperature coming directly out of the vent is different than the ambient temperature of the house. The air coming directly from the vent should be 45-55, however this will not be the temperature in your home.
If using a thermometer stuck in the vent, and the blower fan on a medium speed, in the full cold position with AC on vent, temperatures should be between 40-50 degrees F. In the full heat position vent temps should be at least 140 degrees F.
yes it canAnswerIf an AC system runs constantly you are probably low on refrigerant. Since you state that it is freezing over, I would recommend you check your filter and make sure it is clean before calling a service tech.
No not from over use, yes from incorrect use. and finally probably is low on refrigerant or a dirty filter, (lack of proper air flow). Possibly in low ambient conditions such as for cooling computer rooms in the winter. Then a defrost switch should help. You do need a service tech.
There is a less possibility that the leakage is due to sewage in your vent system. However the biggest reason for this would be improper roof installation. Similarly it can also be the condensation problem from the ducts themselves. You can call the general plumbing service provider to get it solved.In New jersey call for A-General plumbing services for help.
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